New Zealand

Millisphere (noun): A discrete region of approximately one-thousandth of the total world population. Around seven million people but anywhere between 3.5 and 14 million will do.

I have previously sketched out the millisphere of Te Moananui (population 8 million) which includes Aotearoa and all the other islands of the Pacific but, following the above rules, New Zealand (population 4.7 million) qualifies as a millisphere by itself – a millisphere simply being a lens for examining human geography and it is allowable to change the focus.

The Dutch navigator Abel Tasman called these islands “Nieuw-Zeeland” when his party of explorers laid eyes on them in 1642 – and we have been spelling it wrongly ever since. A century-and-a-half later, Captain Cook redrew the map.

In November this year, Te Awahou Nieuwe Stroom will open in a repurposed Mitre-10 in Foxton. Located next to the replica Dutch windmill, Te Awahou will tell the story of the contribution to this country of 160,000 Dutch New Zealanders (and our ancestors).

Lockwood homes, Rembrandt suits, Vogels bread and the Royal Gala apple are some Dutch contributions and we are reputed to have introduced cafe culture to New Zealand.

The English have traditionally found the baldly direct Dutch way of communicating a little unsettling. “You won’t die wondering,” is what they say about the Dutch; as well as being notoriously tight.

Last weekend’s general election provides another lens through which to examine the human geography of “Nieuw-Zeeland”.

Candidates from all parties portrayed a country with a housing crisis, polluted rivers and child poverty – and naturally they were the ones to fix it. Not exactly the happy, green and clean image that we market to the world.

Though New Zealand winters are mild compared with the Netherlands, post-war Dutch immigrants complained that they had never been so cold as their first winter in a traditional NZ timber bungalow. One was expected to put on woolly socks and jumpers and soldier on.

We are only now learning that poor-quality housing leads to poor health. There are ways to build inexpensive warm dry houses (passive solar mass, small rooms and simple things like curtains) but the NZ building regulations often stand in the way.

Ironically, because of the leaky (and rotting) building crisis, caused by the mainstream building industry, it has become virtually impossible for the homeowner to legally do any building work on their own property.

Education and empowerment are ways out of the housing crisis – not the government and the building industry.

We could build our way out of the housing crisis but, at the moment, on the outskirts of Auckland we are building speculator suburban slums when we should be rebuilding well-designed higher density homes in the inner city.

Cleaning up our rivers is also possible. In recent times the regional councils have marginally improved land-use practices while at the same time doubling dairy herd numbers.

Many Dutch immigrants went into intensive agriculture like dairy and poultry. In the Netherlands, cows are kept inside barns but there are animal rights regulations requiring farmers to let their cows outside for some fresh air and severe regulations about what to do with the manure.

New Zealand dairy farmers were caught by the recent dairy price downturn but in the Netherlands it was worse because farmers there had just borrowed millions of euros to install robots to milk their cows to stay ahead of their competitors.

Last weekend’s election saw the tide go out for the minor parties. All that is left of United Future is the faint smell of stale fart and the Maori Party sank below the waves.

“There will be consequences,” said Winston Peters after the Greens called him a racist, and the Greens are dreaming if they think they can be part of a Labour/NZ First/Green coalition. The Greens lost support because both National and Labour appropriated their policies.

“If other parties take Green policy, that’s winning,” said former Green co-leader Russel Norman.

The Greens only option now is to work with National, and their bottom line should be the legalisation of “personal” cannabis. When I was in the Netherlands last, the government was gathering tax from the “coffee shops”, and most Dutch people had never heard of methamphetamine.

*When Fred Frederikse is not building, he is a self-directed student of geography and traveller, and in his spare time he is the co-chair of the Whanganui Musicians Club.

Houston

Millisphere: a region containing one thousandth of the total world population, around seven million people.

Natural disasters have a way of revealing aspects of the geography of the region affected.

The Greater Houston metropolitan area (pop 6.5 million and the fourth largest in the USA) was last week flooded by Hurricane Harvey, which broke all previous records for rainfall.

This “natural” disaster was actually a perfect storm of economics, population and land use.

In 1900 the deadliest hurricane in US history devastated Galveston, when a 4.6-metre storm surge swept over the 2.4-metre high island on which it was built. Not surprisingly many of the survivors moved inland to nearby Houston.

Built on a swamp, Houston has 4000 kilometres of managed waterways – the first of them dug by hand by black slaves and Mexicans. Today it is estimated that one in ten of Houston’s residents is an illegal “alien” from south of the Mexican border.

Parts of Houston have been sinking because of the extraction of groundwater. Some areas have subsided by 3m since 1920, others by 300mm in a decade, creating cracked foundations, uneven footpaths and areas where floodwaters collect.

Houston has very few planning restrictions. Developer-friendly bylaws and no formal zoning code mean that housing was cheap and Houston largely escaped the 2008 economic crisis when American house prices plummeted.

Described by some as “America’s worst designed city,” Houston has doubled in population since 1980, with the resulting urbanization exacerbating the flooding. To cope with the extra run-off many of the waterways needed widening but that would require the city coming up with billions to buy out the properties lining the “bayous.”

A graph of the rainiest days in Houston (1890 – 2016) reveals a trend to intensified rainfall with extreme weather events more frequent. Climate modeling depends on a complex confluence of factors but the world’s temperature is about 0.7℃higher than 1980 and for each degree celsius increase air holds 7% more water.

Houston is the “oil and gas capital of the world” and has the headquarters of over 500 global energy firms. The Shell Oil Company (the US branch of Royal Dutch Shell) has a head office there with 22,000 employees.

The Shell Oil Company’s “futurists” came up with “three hard truths” that the company faced. They were: 1. that global energy demand is rising; 2. that the supply of conventional energy will not be able to keep up, and; 3. that climate change is both real and dangerous.

Red Adair the famous oil well firefighter was from Houston. As well as providing jobs in the downstream oil and gas industry Houston is known for its terrible traffic and bad public transport. The climate is very hot and humid and there are fire ants, snakes, alligators, “mosquitoes the size of sparrows” and residents are forced to spray once a month for the cockroaches. It also has the distinction of being America’s “fattest city.”

Both the Bush presidents, Ted Cruz, Indianapolis 500 race car driver A J Foyt, Howard Hughes, Kenny Rogers, Rodney Crowell and some of ZZ Top are all from Houston and it has the highest number of Fortune 500 companies after New York.

The Port of Houston is the second largest US port in total tonnage (2015) and the first US port in foreign tonnage (2016), exporting oil field equipment, plastic, resins, synthetic rubber, insecticide and chemical fertilizers.

As well as “natural” disasters art has a way of revealing aspects of the geography of a region. Houston’s phenomenally wealthy oil industry has a collective a reputation for patronising “high” art such a Mark Rothko’s multi denominational chapel built to display his blue/black modernist abstract paintings dedicated to “truth and freedom.”

The paintings are so much part of the architecture that visitors have been known to ask: “where are the paintings?”

The Latino barrios are decorated with folk art such as “bathtub Madonnas” – an old decorated bath, sometimes with lights, standing upright with a madonna inside.

President Trump declared the Sunday after the deluge a national day of prayer for the victims of Hurricane Harvey. Planning might be more useful than prayer to avoid future “natural” disasters.

 

Yorkshire/Humberside

Millisphere: a discrete region of roughly one-thousandth of the total world population – around seven million people but anywhere between 3.5 and 14 million will do. A lens through which to examine human geography.

Choosing the millisphere of Yorkshire highlighted for me the arrogance of attempting to describe a region the writer has never been to. It would be easy to trot out the oft quoted trope: “A Yorkshireman is a Scot with all charity wrung out of him” or to list some famous people from “God’s Own Country” but I was looking for something deeper.

Yorkshire Captain James Cook constructed an early link to the millisphere of Te Moananui (covering the Pacific) by putting up the Union Jack for the United Kingdom but also from Yorkshire are: Jeremy Clarkson, Joe Cocker, Mark Dawson, Judi Dench, Guy Fawkes, Andy Goldsworthy, Barbara Hepworth, David Hockney, Frankie Howard, Henry Moore, Michael Palin, Diana Rigg, Jimmy Savile, Harold Wilson and Ernie Wise, to name a few.

The Yorkshire anarchist philosopher, poet and art critic, Sir Herbert Read, once said: “poetry is concerned with the truth of what is, not with what is truth.” The millisphere is concerned the geographical “truths” – a region’s distinctive character and its relationship with other millispheres.

The EU administrative region of Yorkshire/Humber (pop 5.3m) covers most of the historic county of Yorkshire. York comes from the Viking word for town and it was the last English kingdom to be incorporated into the United Kingdom. The Wars of the Roses are symbolically contested to this day with the football match between Leeds United (white/York) and Manchester United (red/Lancaster).

In the 1980s thousands of miners and police faced off for bare-knuckle battles before Margaret Thatcher closed down the Yorkshire coal mines. At the time geographer Doreen Massey (Manchester Open University) in Geography Matters pointed out that poor regions tend to be blamed for their own poverty. “Northern regions are told to stand on their own feet while in the south, around London, the government subsidises development,” she said citing London’s Canary Wharf development and the channel tunnel.

During the 2008 “Global Financial Crisis” (GFC) British bankers unloaded (pound symbol) 1.3 trillion worth of derivatives that, at the time, they referred to as “crap” and “vomit. In the process every British man, woman and child handed over (pound symbol) 19,721 to the bankers. Like South Canterbury Finance in New Zealand, the robbers got bailed out and paid out by the government, the rest got austerity. It was the working class and middle class who paid, leaving seven million Britons in “precarious” employment; setting baby-boomers against millennials and the metropolitan elite against everyone else.

In the recent Brexit referendum Yorkshire/Humber voted to leave – London voted to stay. Since the GFC a regionalist party has emerged in Yorkshire. The Yorkshire Party (originally titled “Yorkshire First”) got only 1% of the votes in 2014 and 5% in the 2017 parliamentary elections, which is insignificant in a first-past-the-post system; their platform is “If Scotland can have their own parliament, why not Yorkshire?”

Sir Herbert Read believed that “the poet is necessarily an anarchist and that he must oppose all organised conceptions of the State, not only those which we inherit from the past, but equally those which are imposed on people in the name of the future.” Read was also an advocate for the importance of art in education.

Like Read, film director Francis Lee is the son of a Yorkshire farmer. Currently screening in cinemas around the county, Francis Lee’s film God’s Own Country has won first prize at Sundance and at the Berlin and Edinburgh Film Festivals.

Described as Yorkshire’s Brokeback Mountain because it depicts a love affair between two men, it also depicts the Yorkshire Landscape. “I want to see the landscape’s effect on the characters, rather than the landscape,” Lee said.

To illustrate the difference between rural Britain and metropolitan London Lee recalled being youngest family member (with the smallest hands) on a pig farm. “My mother talks about me with one hand up a pig’s vagina pulling out piglets and the other hand holding a bacon butty.” You don’t do that in the city.